Jewelled pencil cases: style in the details
In the 19th century – an era when the smallest details of attire and tiny accessories revealed the status and art taste of their owner – jewelled pencil cases came into fashion. Researchers sometimes translate the English term "pencil holders" literally and refer to these items as such.
Pencil cases were crafted from gold, platinum, blued steel, and silver, and were adorned with engraving, niello, enamel, and gemstones –meaning they were far from mere utilitarian stationery. On the contrary, pencil holders were considered luxurious status acquisitions, as well as highly desirable gifts. These pieces combined flawless engineering with the elegance of the Victorian and Georgian eras. At the turn of the 20th century, their design was also influenced by the Art Nouveau style.
Pencil cases were miniature "holders" designed to house a small piece of graphite or a solid mini-pencil. On the top part of these portable holders, there was a ring used to attach the accessory to a watch chain, a bracelet, or a chatelaine – a special decorative belt hook used for carrying various small items (perfume bottles, notebooks, keys, and lorgnettes).
The designs of the cases varied. The simplest models lacked built-in mechanisms: a pencil was inserted into the precious base, leaving its sharpened end outside the case. To prevent the lead from breaking or staining a bag or pocket, the writing tip was covered with a metal cap.
However, most cases were equipped with moving mechanisms that allowed the pencil tip to be securely hidden inside the accessory. For instance, "propelling pencils" with a twist-out mechanism similar to how a lipstick case works were highly popular. Additionally, manufacturers produced cases with a telescopic design, where the lead was extended from its precious base by moving a slider.
The interesting thing is that the cases were not always round in cross-section; rectangular bodies with rounded edges are frequently found in auctions and museum collections. Special rectangular pencils were manufactured for these flat holders to fit perfectly. The case bodies featured intricate guilloché engraving, sometimes overlaid with hot enamel for a subtle, shimmering effect. Decorations included inlays of small sapphires, emeralds, or diamonds, with cabochon-cut gemstones like garnets and turquoises on the slider, and occasionally, intaglio seals.
The famous manufacturer of mechanical cases in the 19th century was Sampson Mordan. In 1822, together with his co-inventor John Isaac Hawkins, Mordan patented the first successful mechanism. From 1823 to 1837, Sampson Mordan produced mechanical cases in partnership with jeweler and entrepreneur Gabriel Riddle—the first letters of their names formed the company's hallmark "SMGR." Subsequently, Mordan continued production independently under his own brand, S. Mordan & Co. The firm became famous for its incredible variety of gold and silver cases, among which novelty shaped bodies in the form of pigs, dogs, pistols, fish, owls, champagne bottles, and even Egyptian sarcophagi particularly stood out. At the turn of the century in the Russian Empire, the production of cases was carried on by the House of Fabergé. The artisans of this brand created pencil holders decorated with guilloché enamel in signature shades: pale light green, opalescent, salmon, and dark blue. In the United States, elegant pendant cases were produced by Tiffany & Co.
It is believed that the first pencil cases were inspired by portable pencils that were attached as early as the 18th century to a carnet de bal – miniature dance cards in which ladies recorded their dance partners to avoid accidentally forgetting a gentleman and causing offense. However, in the 19th century, during the heyday of this accessory type, the cases were predominantly used by men: statesmen, writers, composers, and artists gladly attached elegant pencil holders to their watch chains. Thanks to these items, gentlemen were always ready to sign important papers or provide an autograph.
Cases have been documented where Fabergé pencil cases were presented as commemorative luxury gifts to housekeepers who managed the households of entire aristocratic estates. A housekeeper receiving such a magnificent souvenir would attach it to her chatelaine alongside her keys, allowing her to easily track the consumption of liquids and grains, as well as make notations in the pantry ledgers.
The museum Collection repository features several elegant pencil cases. One of them, 3564.1-2/ДПИ, created in the early 20th century in St. Petersburg, represents a beautiful example of fine guilloché work covered with cool-toned green enamel. A round-section case, 1643/ ДПИ, produced by the Adler & Co., still holds a heavily used miniature pencil inside. The Odessa-made pencil case 8181.1-3/ДПИ is crafted from gold, its body decorated with long, longitudinal fluted lines. A small pencil holder, 8180/ ДПИ, which measures just 6 cm in length, is adorned with a large blue cabochon gemstone. Finally, an exquisite case, 1881.1-3/ДПИ, covered with opalescent enamel over guilloché background, has survived to this day in its original box, bearing the signature of I.S. Britsyn's workshop for gold, silver, and enamel wares, "Russian Enamel". Attached to the ring of this accessory is a gold egg pendant, coated in enamel of the same silvery shade.
By Anna Savchenkova, Art Historian at the museum Collection.