Tortoiseshell (often referred to as ‘tortis’ in decorative art) is a unique organic material that has been highly valued for centuries. As early as the 16^th–19^th centuries, it was used to make combs, spectacle frames, inlays, buttons and parts (elements) of musical instruments: warm amber-brown marbled pattern and polishability made this material a symbol of luxury and a testament to the craftsmanship of artisans.
Tortoiseshell items were inlaid with silver and gold wire, mother-of-pearl, edged with ivory, or used as the inner lining.

During the heyday of hand fans fashion, the most expensive ones were also made from tortoiseshell. Large horn and tortoiseshell combs, which came into fashion from Italy, were decorated with coloured stones, cameos and inlays. There are both dark and light tortoiseshells. Light shells are in high demand because they let light through and appear golden.

In Italy in the 16^th century, the art of inlaying tortoiseshell plates with copper and other metals was developed. In the 17^th century, the craft of inlaying spread throughout Central Europe. André-Charles Boulle, Louis XIV's chief furniture maker, brought this technique to the highest levels of craftsmanship. At the beginning of the 19^th century, tortoiseshell items experienced a ‘renaissance.’ At the early 20^th century, tortoiseshell became fashionable. At the same time, imitations of tortoiseshell made from horn appeared.

Aesthetically, tortoiseshell is appealing due to its depth of colour, natural pattern variation and soft sheen, which cannot be fully reproduced with synthetic materials. The texture and translucency of the plates create the effect of a ‘living’ material, enhancing the feeling of exclusivity of the product. In art, tortoiseshell is often been associated with refinement, distant travels and exotics, sometimes serving as a metaphor for durability and protection. Tortoiseshell products have often been perceived as status symbols and objects of refined taste.

The practical properties of the material include the fact that it can be easily cut, ground, and polished; it is suitable for fine decorative carving and inlay work. The material is brittle when subjected to strong impacts and is sensitive to heat and solvents. It is similar in physical structure to other horn materials, but has a unique colour and texture.

Tortoiseshell remains an important part of the decorative art history due to its unique aesthetics; hence its use today is limited by ethical and legal norms. Contemporary art and craft practices show a desire to preserve visual traditions while switching to safe imitations and environmentally friendly materials. This approach allows cultural heritage to be preserved and demonstrates responsibility towards nature and future generations.

For centuries, tortoiseshell has been considered one of the most expensive exotic materials used in decorative arts. The museum Сollection exposition features exhibits made using tortoiseshell or decorated with this natural material. Some of these items are presented in our new Photo Album.

On the cover: Music snuffbox. France. The 19th century